Should You Grade That Card? How I Decide What to Submit
Grading can turn a raw card into a protected, authenticated collectible with a recognized condition grade. It can also increase a card’s value, make it easier to sell, and give buyers more confidence.
However, grading is not automatically profitable.
Before I send a card to PSA, CGC, Beckett, or another grading company, I inspect the card carefully and calculate whether the potential reward justifies the cost and risk.
Here is the process I use at The Collection Hall.
Start With the Card’s Value
The first question is not whether the card looks good. The first question is whether grading makes financial sense.
I begin by identifying the exact card, including its set, card number, language, variation, and printing. Then I compare:
- The current raw market value
- Recent sales in likely graded conditions
- The value of a PSA 10, PSA 9, CGC 10, or comparable grade
- The grading fee
- Shipping and insurance costs
- Marketplace fees if I plan to sell it
- The amount of time my money will be tied up
I use TCGplayer, recent eBay sold listings, and PriceCharting when reliable sales data is available.
A card selling for $60 raw might sell for $180 in a PSA 10. That sounds like an obvious grading candidate. However, if the same card sells for only $70 in a PSA 9 and the total grading cost is $35, the decision depends heavily on whether the card has a realistic chance of receiving a 10.
The PSA 10 price should never be treated as the guaranteed value of a submission.
Decide Why You Are Grading It
Not every grading decision is about profit.
There are several good reasons to grade a card:
- Increasing its resale value
- Authenticating a valuable or commonly counterfeited card
- Protecting it for long-term storage
- Preserving a sentimental card
- Making it easier to display
- Building a graded set or personal collection
- Preparing a card for a future sale
A childhood card may be worth grading even if the numbers do not produce a profit. A modern card intended for resale requires a much stricter financial evaluation.
Knowing the purpose helps determine how selective you need to be.
Inspect the Centering
Centering is one of the first things collectors notice.
I compare the borders on the left and right sides, followed by the top and bottom. I also turn the card over and inspect the back because back centering still affects the grade.
A centering tool can help, but you can often identify obvious problems by looking at the card straight on under good lighting.
According to PSA’s official grading standards, a PSA 10 may have approximate centering of up to 55/45 on the front and 75/25 on the back. Meeting those measurements does not guarantee a 10 because the rest of the card must also meet the standard.
If a modern card is clearly off-center, I usually assume the chance of receiving a top grade has already dropped.
Examine All Four Corners
Corners can look sharp at first glance but reveal problems under magnification.
I inspect every corner from the front and back while looking for:
- Whitening
- Fraying
- Bends
- Dents
- Chipping
- Softness
- Separation between the card layers
One weak corner can hold back an otherwise beautiful card. Dark-backed Pokémon cards make whitening especially easy to spot.
I also change the angle of the light because a small bend or compressed corner may only appear when the surface catches a reflection.
Check Every Edge
Next, I slowly inspect all four edges.
Common edge problems include:
- White spots
- Rough factory cuts
- Silvering
- Chipping
- Small dents
- Fraying
- Ink loss
Some cards leave the factory with rough cuts or small areas of edge wear. A card being pack-fresh does not mean it is perfect.
I pay particular attention to the back edges because tiny white marks can blend into the design when the card is viewed quickly.
Study the Surface Under Direct Light
The surface is where many potential 10s fall apart.
I use bright, direct lighting and tilt the card in several directions. This makes it easier to see scratches, dents, print lines, fingerprints, stains, and other defects.
On holographic cards, I inspect both the artwork and the surrounding holo area. Fine scratches can disappear when the card is viewed straight on but become obvious at an angle.
I look for:
- Holo scratches
- Print lines
- Dents or impressions
- Creases
- Surface scuffs
- Missing ink
- Stains
- Fingerprints
- Factory roller marks
- Indentations visible only from the back
A crease or dent can significantly lower a grade even when the rest of the card looks clean. PSA notes that graders evaluate centering, corners, edges, surface, print quality, and overall eye appeal during the card grading process.
Never Alter the Card
There is an important difference between safely removing loose dust and altering a card.
I do not recommend polishing, pressing, recoloring, trimming, flattening, or using chemicals on a card before grading. These methods can permanently damage the card or cause it to be rejected as altered.
If a card has a visible defect, I evaluate it honestly. Trying to hide or repair the defect can create a much bigger problem than simply receiving a lower grade.
Choose the Right Grading Company
Different grading companies have different holders, grading standards, pricing structures, turnaround times, and resale markets.
PSA, CGC, and Beckett are all recognized names, but the best choice may depend on the specific card and what you plan to do with it.
Before choosing, I research:
- Recent sales of that exact card in each company’s holder
- The company’s current grading fees
- Estimated turnaround time
- Maximum value allowed under each service level
- Population reports
- The appearance of the holder and label
- Whether I am grading for resale or my personal collection
CGC, for example, offers both Gem Mint 10 and Pristine 10 grades, with its Pristine designation reserved for exceptional cards. You can review the current requirements through the official CGC grading scale.
Service levels and fees change, so I always check the grading company’s website before creating a submission.
Prepare the Card Correctly
Once I decide to submit a card, I place it into a clean penny sleeve and then into a semi-rigid card holder.
PSA’s current shipping guide instructs customers to use clear sleeves and semi-rigid holders. It also advises against using toploaders, tape, pull tabs, or sticky notes for standard submissions.
I make sure the cards are placed in the same order shown on the submission form. Then I secure the stack between pieces of cardboard, add protective packing material, and use a sturdy shipping box.
For valuable submissions, tracking and appropriate insurance are essential.
I also photograph the front and back of every card before shipping. This gives me a record of the card’s condition and helps document exactly what was included.
What Happens After the Card Arrives?
The grading company receives the package, verifies the submission, authenticates the card, evaluates its condition, assigns a grade, encapsulates it, and performs quality control before returning it.
CGC outlines this as a multi-step process that includes verification, authentication, grading, encapsulation, imaging, quality control, and return shipping. The complete process is explained on the CGC grading process page.
When the card returns, the final grade may be higher or lower than expected. That uncertainty is part of grading.
Even experienced collectors cannot guarantee a grade.
My Final Grading Test
Before submitting, I ask myself three questions:
- What grade do I honestly believe this card will receive?
- Does the card still make financial sense if it grades one point lower?
- Would I be comfortable keeping the card if the market changes before it returns?
If the entire plan only works with a perfect grade, the submission is probably too risky.
The best grading candidates combine strong condition, real collector demand, a meaningful difference between raw and graded value, and enough profit margin to absorb fees or an unexpected grade.
At The Collection Hall, grading is not about sending every shiny card and hoping for a 10. It is about slowing down, inspecting the details, researching the market, and making a calculated decision.
Sometimes the right move is to grade the card.
Sometimes the smartest move is to sell it raw.